5.10 Quantum Climbing Shoes Review

by Anthony

In this post I will present my opinion on the new 5.10 Quantum’s. Not too long ago 5.10 released the new upgraded Quantum’s, 5.10 stopped producing the old ones a few years back, but looks like a lot of people liked the old ones (including me) so the company decided to make a newer version. In my opinion the new Quantum’s are great: they have a good balance of comfort and performance, they work great both bouldering and rope and I have no complaints about how they perform. But there is one thing I don’t really like about the shoe, its durability. My first pair lasted 1 and a half months before it got a hole which is pretty unusual for a climbing shoe, usually a shoe lasts about 4 months before getting a hole. At that point I was pretty disappointed but before I got the hole in my first pair I won a free pair of the same shoes at a local competition. So I started wearing the new pair and I got a hole on the top of the shoe after only 2 weeks of climbing! (pictured below) And at the same time I already started getting a hole in the front of the shoe. What is unusual is that from my experience with different climbing shoes from different manufacturers the rubber would get really soft and thin before getting a hole, but with these shoes the rubber was pretty much brand new and it just cracked. I’m not sure if I got unlucky with both, I do climb a lot indoors and outdoors so it might be that I scratched it or stepped on something sharp but still with each shoe lasting less than 2 months that’s a little bit suspicious. Overall these are great climbing shoes but if you’re planning on buying this then keep in mind that it could wear out pretty fast.

hole_in_shoe

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Artistic climbing pictures

Results of doodling with pictures on my phone while killing time.

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Finals! #absnationals

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Photoreport from The Hood

 

 

 

Info about climbing The Hood Mt Charleston

We are going to make a visit to The Hood this spring. Here is relevant info on Internet we have found so far.

Seems that the only book that describes this area is “Islands in the sky” by Dan McQuade, Rockfax (2001).

Interestingly enough, BLM provides online document with photos and routes: Mt. Charleston Wilderness Area

Video of Steve Lapen on Ghetto Booty 5.14.

Ethan Pringle blog:

https://touchstoneclimbing.com/hasta-la-vista-with-ethan-pringle/

David Gibbons climbing Ghetto Boys:

Warlords – 5.13a:

Manny on Entropy 5.13c:

Lifetime Achievement Award goes to Voytek Kurtyka

According to Alpinist Magazine:

The Piolets D’Or committee has announced that this year’s Lifetime Achievement Award will be presented to Polish alpinist Voytek Kurtyka.

Few links about this interesting person:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wojciech_Kurtyka

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP43/43-64-view-from-the-wall-voytek-kurtyka

http://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/20-wojciech-kurtyka

The last link has Voytek’s quotes from books, articles and interviews. Voytek seems to  be one of those rare climbing individuals who is able to articulate his thoughts and reflections on climbing very well.