Scarpa Instinct VS Shoe Review, By Anthony
In this post, I will be presenting my views and opinions on the Scarpa Instinct VS. After being pleased with the performance of the Scarpa Instinct Lace-ups, I doubted that I wouldn’t enjoy the Velcro version, so I gave them a shot. At first, I was of the opinion that they were primarily bouldering shoes, the large toe pad and the aggressive look gives it away. When I would keep strenuous heels hooks and edges that I previously couldn’t accomplish with the lace ups, I was surprised but not astonished. Once the inevitable day came when my lace-ups broke, I had no other choice then to rope climb in the VS’s, it felt great. All of a sudden, I was feeling way more confident in my foot placements and could achieve harder moves and clips. Keep in mind that this is just what I experienced, for many other people the Lace-ups could possibly fit better. Now let’s go over the pros and cons I found out about the Instinct VS.
Pro: Despite being a pretty downturned shoe I can more than confidently smear with them.
Pro: Better edging than any other shoe I’ve worn so far.
Pro: Great for both bouldering and rope.
Pro: As I am a pretty big plastic junkie and have had a month long outdoor trip with the VS’s I can confidently say that they perform well on both.
Con: Can’t keep them on for long (just like many other downturned shoes), but still scores better in terms of comfortably compared to other aggressive shoes.
Con: The Instinct VS’s has this orange strap on the top of the shoe that ripped off on 2 of my previous pairs. The design requires that you pinch the strap instead of inserting your finger and pulling. The picture below shows the comparison between a ripped and attached strap. The second picture is the pull-strap design on the Scarpa Chimera which most likely wont rip off, hopefully Scarpa will use the same concept for future Instinct VS models.
In conclusion, I would say that the Instinct VS is my favorite shoe on the market currently and would strongly recommend it for anyone looking for a great all-round shoe. That concludes my review, if you’re interested in checking out any other reviews or just want some climbing related content check out some of our other posts!
by Anthony Lesik
Finding the right climbing shoe is not necessary easy business, however I personally believe that the time spent finding the right shoe is worthwhile. My climbing is definitely benefits from having shoe that fits me. Last summer I decided to try out the first versions of the Scarpa (the red ones) for a trip to Squamish; I had some mixed opinions about it after the trip. The shoe was very painful and stiff at first and took about 3 weeks until I was comfortable climbing with them. After about two months of climbing with them I was pretty disappointed on how they broke down, instead of having usual expected progression of first softening and then getting hole, for this shoe the rubber on the toe and the heel just started peeling off which made it very uncomfortable to climb. While looking for a new shoe I saw the new version of the Instincts (the black and orange ones), I liked how they looked and decided to give them a try. Here are some facts and observations I would like to share about the shoe.
- The first thing I noticed is that they put a thin piece of rubber over the heel exterior so it wouldn’t peel off (previous model suffered from it), also looks like they fixed something with the toe since it breaks like any other shoe now.
- Since the shoe rubber is noticeably softer it doesn’t take long to break in compared to the old Instincts. In two sessions, I could already climb hard in them.
- Has the perfect amount of stiffness.
- Lasts for a reasonable amount of time compared to other shoes I’ve used.
- One of the top aggressive lase up shoes; despite its aggressive sole it still works on slab.
- Good for both rope and bouldering.
- Ventilation works all right and the materials do not accumulate smells.
Overall this is probably one of the best climbing shoes I’ve worn so far, it performs great and doesn’t have anything I dislike about it. Verdict: I would recommend this shoes to anyone looking for a good aggressive shoe.
Picture of me sending Ride White Horse V10 in Scapra Instinct:
In this post I will present my opinion on the new 5.10 Quantum’s. Not too long ago 5.10 released the new upgraded Quantum’s, 5.10 stopped producing the old ones a few years back, but looks like a lot of people liked the old ones (including me) so the company decided to make a newer version. In my opinion the new Quantum’s are great: they have a good balance of comfort and performance, they work great both bouldering and rope and I have no complaints about how they perform. But there is one thing I don’t really like about the shoe, its durability. My first pair lasted 1 and a half months before it got a hole which is pretty unusual for a climbing shoe, usually a shoe lasts about 4 months before getting a hole. At that point I was pretty disappointed but before I got the hole in my first pair I won a free pair of the same shoes at a local competition. So I started wearing the new pair and I got a hole on the top of the shoe after only 2 weeks of climbing! (pictured below) And at the same time I already started getting a hole in the front of the shoe. What is unusual is that from my experience with different climbing shoes from different manufacturers the rubber would get really soft and thin before getting a hole, but with these shoes the rubber was pretty much brand new and it just cracked. I’m not sure if I got unlucky with both, I do climb a lot indoors and outdoors so it might be that I scratched it or stepped on something sharp but still with each shoe lasting less than 2 months that’s a little bit suspicious. Overall these are great climbing shoes but if you’re planning on buying this then keep in mind that it could wear out pretty fast.
Tenaya Oasi’s is an all rounder shoe great for bouldering and for sport climbing. The Oasi’s are also work great both indoors and outdoors (unlike some shoes that work better indoors). The Oasis have two adjustable straps, making it great for wide and narrow feet. After a few months of climbing in Oasi’s I noticed I could wear them for a decent amount of time (comparing to other down turned shoes) which I was really happy about; the problem with most down turned shoes is that you can’t really keep them on for long, for example 5.10 Teams, they are great for bouldering, but they begin to hurt in 5 minutes and it’s a pain getting them on and off. Another great thing about the Oasi’s is that the toe box is roomy and it doesn’t jam and destroy your foot.
Let me give you some insights about how the shoes perform:
- Great for toe-hooking since it has a piece of rubber on the top of the shoe.
- Good for slab and overhung, since the shoe is not too down-turned but also not too flat.
- In my experience the heel fit really nice and there was no or very little space in the heel which made it nice because my foot wouldn’t slip out of the shoe while heel-hooking.
- Its probably the best comfy down-turned shoe out there.
The shoe itself:
- Has two thin Velcro straps that are adjustable which makes it pretty convenient.
- The upper part of the shoe is a thin stretchy synthetic sock.
Overall, in my opinion I think they are one of the best shoes I owned and would recommend this shoe to any level climber since they are literally great for everything: bouldering, roping, slab, overhangs, and to top it all out they don’t jam or squeeze your foot, very comfy compare to anything I wore before.
Dragons were my favorite inside and outside climbing shoes for last year, with an exception of The Pink Anasazi Lace on long sports routes in Ceuse. However three weeks ago I decided to give the Team a try, I had them 2 years ago and was not very happy with them. This time around I was pleased with Team model, may be because I grew and my foot is now shaped better for this model. Anyway, they feel more comfortable now.
Here is my brief comparison of Team vs Dragon:
- Team has more rubber on the top of the shoe which makes for better toe hooking and there is just one Velcro strap compare to Dragon’s shoe laces; Team wins big time for toe hooking.
- Team is the hardest shoe to put on and break in, while Dragon has laces and breaks in a lot faster.
- You can not wear Team for a long time because of how tight and down turn it is, but Dragons are some what more comfy.
- Team feels like slightly more aggressive and high performance bouldering shoe than Dragon, at least to my taste.
- Dragons are one of the lightest shoes weighting 5.60oz ( US 9 Men), Teams weight 7.2oz.
All in all these are both great shoes and I recommend to try them both before making final decision, to find out which one fits you better.
Personally, for upcoming ABS16 Nationals I pick Team … but also bringing Dragons with me, just in case (maybe for slab routes).