Info about climbing The Hood Mt Charleston

We are going to make a visit to The Hood this spring. Here is relevant info on Internet we have found so far.

Seems that the only book that describes this area is “Islands in the sky” by Dan McQuade, Rockfax (2001).

Interestingly enough, BLM provides online document with photos and routes: Mt. Charleston Wilderness Area

Video of Steve Lapen on Ghetto Booty 5.14.

Ethan Pringle blog:

https://touchstoneclimbing.com/hasta-la-vista-with-ethan-pringle/

David Gibbons climbing Ghetto Boys:

Warlords – 5.13a:

Manny on Entropy 5.13c:

Lifetime Achievement Award goes to Voytek Kurtyka

According to Alpinist Magazine:

The Piolets D’Or committee has announced that this year’s Lifetime Achievement Award will be presented to Polish alpinist Voytek Kurtyka.

Few links about this interesting person:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wojciech_Kurtyka

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP43/43-64-view-from-the-wall-voytek-kurtyka

http://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/20-wojciech-kurtyka

The last link has Voytek’s quotes from books, articles and interviews. Voytek seems to  be one of those rare climbing individuals who is able to articulate his thoughts and reflections on climbing very well.

 

2016 US Bouldering National Championships Results

Men’s Final Round

Rank Climber Tops Points 1 2 3 4
1 Nathaniel Coleman 3 2.33 1 3 6.5 1.5
2 Jimmy Webb 3 2.77 6.5 3 2 1.5
3 Carlo Traversi 3 3.31 2 3 4 5
4 Daniel Woods 3 3.6 4 6 2 3.5
5 Tyler Landman 3 3.96 5 7 2 3.5
6 Kai Lightner 2 4.33 3 3 6.5 6
7 Mohammad Jafari Mahmodabadi 1 5.11 6.5 3 5 7

 

Women’s Final Round

Rank Climber Tops Points 1 2 3 4
1 Megan Mascarenas 3 2.21 2 2 1.5 4
2 Alex Puccio 2 1.65 1 5 1.5 1
3 Claire Buhrfeind 2 3.08 3 2 3 5
4 Micheala Kiersch 1 3.5 5 2 6 2.5
5 Meagan Martin 1 3.56 4 4 4 2.5
6 Sierra Blair-Coyle 0 5.73 6 6 5 6

 

Let us share our personal reflections on the comp.

MEN

Men’s final round this year was very intense. All the way to the very end it was hard to predict the outcome because several competitors were crushing with almost equal power. It will perhaps be safe to suggest that problems 1 and 3 were most interesting to watch as they were progressively introducing an interesting separation in the scores.

Problem 1.

Daniel fell matching on the finish hold and did not get the top that could bring him victory this year with the only one with 4 tops.

Daniel Woods on Problem 1

Jimmy could not pass the first crux at the very beginning. If he passed that crux he would finish problem #1 for sure, and get 4 tops and win the comp. We dare to say it is not the first time Jimmy has this problem with funky-gymnastic-indoor-plastic moves. In an attempt to generalize our observations: the strongest outdoor crushers sometimes struggle on “artificial indoor-only” moves more than objectively weaker climbers who spend most of their time climbing indoor. You would think that climbers like Jimmy Webb or Adam Ondra can always win a comp, but it is not really the case; climbing outside and indoor have their differences.

Problem 3.

Nathaniel won the comp. But he could not pass those powerful pinches at the beginning of Problem #3, he admitted this problem in the post-comp interview with the commentators. Kai could not conquer those pinches either. Jimmy and Daniel on other side casually walk through that place.

Nathaniel on Problem 3

Jimmy on Problem 3

So we see two things:

  • Guys (usually pros) who seriously crush outside usually dominate on the routes that require raw finger strength.
  • Indoor junkies, usually young athletes, might not have power of V15 pro crushers on crimps and pinches but sometimes have an advantage on tricky/funky gymnastic moves due to a) younger age and therefore more agile body, b) more time spent on plastic and c) training and physical conditioning provided by coaches.

Miscellaneous.

Mohammad got into finals and somewhat proved that last year was not a fluke. He could not do the beginning of Problem 1 and beginning of Problem 3, could not finish Problem 4 and ended up with just one top of Problem 2.

Getting into finals for Kai is probably a great achievement, he is definitely getting better and better in bouldering. He is very young, we will see if his power will eventually match his endurance and he starts crushing in bouldering.

Scoring.

Daniel was one move away from having 4 tops. Nathaniel could not start #3. Both have 3 tops. Nathaniel 1st place and Daniel 4th. Isn’t it … wrong? Attending a lot of Youth comps we can say that the new scoring system “selects” climbers that make less mistakes but not necessary the strongest climbers. We have a situation when pretty much all climbing community does not like this new scoring system but we still have it.

 

Women

Megan climbed very well and deserved the victory.

Alex has shown that she is a true warrior. It seemed that it was not easy comp for her for many reasons including recent knee injury. Respect.

Another young climber, Claire Buhrfeind 3rd place, really good performance.

Tips for Dyno moves

  • Some people are more natural with dynos than others, nevertheless do not expect to be dyno master without practicing and training, as dynamic moves require great deal of coordination and a proper mindset.
  • The main way of training is to practice dynos in a gym. Pick big enough move with big enough holds on overhang wall and do it. Once you have mastered the dyno, make another one. Practicing dynos with friends could be very fun and brighten your mood.
  • Sticking a dyno at the dead point of the jump requires quick reaction: you touch the hold then quickly grab it holding weight of your whole body and possibly struggling with a swing. To train this quick muscle reaction, other than just doing dynos, we can recommend 2 hands jumps on a campus board. We also find throwing big heavy ball at each other a good training for quick body reaction (stand on a high stool or unstable surface to add difficulty).
  • While jumping think in terms of trajectories of the center of mass of your body and individual parts of your body.
  • Pulling with arms and pushing with legs must be one well coordinated move. That is the main thing you have to practice.
  • Do not fight a swing with your hands, instead let your back arch and legs swing to gently kill the momentum of the swing.
  • Once your body is trained for dynos, rest is in your head. Get psyched, do not think that you can’t do the move, do no think about the fall. The trick is that you also have to train your head for dyno; at this point it becomes very individual experience but for sure head/mind can and should be trained too.
  • Do not get frustrated if you do not get the dyno on the first try. Big dyno usually takes time to execute. First try to touch place under the hold, then try to touch bottom of the hold, then the hold itself.

 

https://www.instagram.com/p/BAATzzTP7Pp

 

First V10 for kids

It is nice to know that you are actually able to boulder double digits, it increases your self confidence, especially if you are a kid. Therefore projecting V10+ is a good idea if kid is at the V8/9 level.

For kids it makes sense to find out what other strong kids climbed as their first V10+ and first try those problems. Truth is, every strong kid we know climbed his/her first V10 that perfectly suits him/her.

There are so much info on Internet that it is usually not a problem to find what you want, but in case your bouldering destination is one where kids do not climb that often and no relevant info is available, then, as a rule of thumb, look for overhang wall with small holds without big moves 🙂 .

Anthony’s first V10 happened to be Scare Tactics in Red Rocks this year (2015). By now days standards V10 at 12 years old is nothing extraordinary, but hopefully it is just a beginning…

https://www.instagram.com/p/-nWH0Bv7MU

New Regulations for Gold Wall in Sonora, California

Past weekend a sign with rules for visiting climbers was installed at the trail-head to Gold Wall (it surprised us a great deal on Sunday morning). Access Fond published info on the website regarding the sign and the situation with climbing Gold Wall:

https://www.accessfund.org/news-and-events/news/new-regulations-for-gold-wall-in-california

Most probably this event implies that Access Fond and the land owner stroke a deal and climbing Gold Wall does not violate any laws as long as climbers follow the rules. Hopefully we will see the topo soon.

https://instagram.com/p/9kKacVv7DW

4K Video for Instagram Pictures

When we go outside it is usually just two of us. One climbs and another belays or spots the climber. No one can operate a photo camera. But we found a solution to have at least some photo material. We record 4K videos with a video camera and later on take an interesting frame. 4K video has enough resolution to get decent quality photo for Instagram.

Here are few examples made with Sony FDR-AX100 camcorder.

Tenaya Oasi Climbing Shoes Review

By Anthony

Tenaya Oasi’s is an all rounder shoe great for bouldering and for sport climbing. The Oasi’s are also work great both indoors and outdoors (unlike some shoes that work better indoors). The Oasis have two adjustable straps, making it great for wide and narrow feet. After a few months of climbing in Oasi’s I noticed I could wear them for a decent amount of time (comparing to other down turned shoes) which I was really happy about; the problem with most down turned shoes is that you can’t really keep them on for long, for example 5.10 Teams, they are great for bouldering, but they begin to hurt in 5 minutes and it’s a pain getting them on and off. Another great thing about the Oasi’s is that the toe box is roomy and it doesn’t jam and destroy your foot.

View this post on Instagram

Tenaya Oasi climbing shoes

A post shared by @ psyched2climb on


Let me give you some insights about how the shoes perform:

  • Great for toe-hooking since it has a piece of rubber on the top of the shoe.
  • Good for slab and overhung, since the shoe is not too down-turned but also not too flat.
  • In my experience the heel fit really nice and there was no or very little space in the heel which made it nice because my foot wouldn’t slip out of the shoe while heel-hooking.
  • Its probably the best comfy down-turned shoe out there.

The shoe itself:

  • Has two thin Velcro straps that are adjustable which makes it pretty convenient.
  • The upper part of the shoe is a thin stretchy synthetic sock.

Overall, in my opinion I think they are one of the best shoes I owned and would recommend this shoe to any level climber since they are literally great for everything: bouldering, roping, slab, overhangs, and to top it all out they don’t jam or squeeze your foot, very comfy compare to anything I wore before.

https://instagram.com/p/6KpUL4v7Ef