Scarpa Instinct VS Review

Scarpa Instinct VS Shoe Review, By Anthony

In this post, I will be presenting my views and opinions on the Scarpa Instinct VS. After being pleased with the performance of the Scarpa Instinct Lace-ups, I doubted that I wouldn’t enjoy the Velcro version, so I gave them a shot. At first, I was of the opinion that they were primarily bouldering shoes, the large toe pad and the aggressive look gives it away. When I would keep strenuous heels hooks and edges that I previously couldn’t accomplish with the lace ups, I was surprised but not astonished. Once the inevitable day came when my lace-ups broke, I had no other choice then to rope climb in the VS’s, it felt great. All of a sudden, I was feeling way more confident in my foot placements and could achieve harder moves and clips. Keep in mind that this is just what I experienced, for many other people the Lace-ups could possibly fit better. Now let’s go over the pros and cons I found out about the Instinct VS.

Pro: Despite being a pretty downturned shoe I can more than confidently smear with them.

Pro: Better edging than any other shoe I’ve worn so far.

Pro: Great for both bouldering and rope.

Pro: As I am a pretty big plastic junkie and have had a month long outdoor trip with the VS’s I can confidently say that they perform well on both.

Con: Can’t keep them on for long (just like many other downturned shoes), but still scores better in terms of comfortably compared to other aggressive shoes.

Con: The Instinct VS’s has this orange strap on the top of the shoe that ripped off on 2 of my previous pairs. The design requires that you pinch the strap instead of inserting your finger and pulling. The picture below shows the comparison between a ripped and attached strap. The second picture is the pull-strap design on the Scarpa Chimera which most likely wont rip off, hopefully Scarpa will use the same concept for future Instinct VS models.


In conclusion, I would say that the Instinct VS is my favorite shoe on the market currently and would strongly recommend it for anyone looking for a great all-round shoe. That concludes my review, if you’re interested in checking out any other reviews or just want some climbing related content check out some of our other posts!