Men’s Final Round
|7||Mohammad Jafari Mahmodabadi||1||5.11||6.5||3||5||7|
Women’s Final Round
Let us share our personal reflections on the comp.
Men’s final round this year was very intense. All the way to the very end it was hard to predict the outcome because several competitors were crushing with almost equal power. It will perhaps be safe to suggest that problems 1 and 3 were most interesting to watch as they were progressively introducing an interesting separation in the scores.
Daniel fell matching on the finish hold and did not get the top that could bring him victory this year with the only one with 4 tops.
Jimmy could not pass the first crux at the very beginning. If he passed that crux he would finish problem #1 for sure, and get 4 tops and win the comp. We dare to say it is not the first time Jimmy has this problem with funky-gymnastic-indoor-plastic moves. In an attempt to generalize our observations: the strongest outdoor crushers sometimes struggle on “artificial indoor-only” moves more than objectively weaker climbers who spend most of their time climbing indoor. You would think that climbers like Jimmy Webb or Adam Ondra can always win a comp, but it is not really the case; climbing outside and indoor have their differences.
Nathaniel won the comp. But he could not pass those powerful pinches at the beginning of Problem #3, he admitted this problem in the post-comp interview with the commentators. Kai could not conquer those pinches either. Jimmy and Daniel on other side casually walk through that place.
So we see two things:
- Guys (usually pros) who seriously crush outside usually dominate on the routes that require raw finger strength.
- Indoor junkies, usually young athletes, might not have power of V15 pro crushers on crimps and pinches but sometimes have an advantage on tricky/funky gymnastic moves due to a) younger age and therefore more agile body, b) more time spent on plastic and c) training and physical conditioning provided by coaches.
Mohammad got into finals and somewhat proved that last year was not a fluke. He could not do the beginning of Problem 1 and beginning of Problem 3, could not finish Problem 4 and ended up with just one top of Problem 2.
Getting into finals for Kai is probably a great achievement, he is definitely getting better and better in bouldering. He is very young, we will see if his power will eventually match his endurance and he starts crushing in bouldering.
Daniel was one move away from having 4 tops. Nathaniel could not start #3. Both have 3 tops. Nathaniel 1st place and Daniel 4th. Isn’t it … wrong? Attending a lot of Youth comps we can say that the new scoring system “selects” climbers that make less mistakes but not necessary the strongest climbers. We have a situation when pretty much all climbing community does not like this new scoring system but we still have it.
Megan climbed very well and deserved the victory.
Alex has shown that she is a true warrior. It seemed that it was not easy comp for her for many reasons including recent knee injury. Respect.
Another young climber, Claire Buhrfeind 3rd place, really good performance.
Claire Buhrfeind @clairebuhrfeind #tb 2015 #usaclimbing Youth Bouldering Nationals. Really strong performance today in Open! 3rd place! Congratulations! #climbing #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #bouldering #climbinglife #iloveclimbing #liveclimbrepeat #portrait #climbinggirl #climbingnation #instaclimb #usaopenboulderingnationals #climbing_is_my_passion #usacbouldering #absnationals