So you are planning a trip to Céüse or you heard about this place and maybe you are considering to go, either way this will give you some tips and advices (based on our experience of 2 trips). We assume that you are as us coming to France from far away and have zero knowledge of France and its customs.
Had a good session at Ceuse today sent Lapinerie 7b/5.12b. Then worked on Sans peur et sanglier 7c+/5.13a. Then tried Bourinator 8a/5.13b. Psyched to work on some hard routes this summer. #climbing #climbinglife #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #nature #outdoors #france #rockclimbing #ceuse #sky #rock #mountains #crag #levitate
- We like flying to Geneva airport, reasons:
- usually the cheapest choice;
- the place is big international hub, hence easy to rent a car and etc;
- drive to Ceuse is straightforward 3-4 hours mostly on motorway;
- Exchange some cash euros home (we do it in SF airport), in case you come late and all places to exchange currency already are closed you will have some cash handy.
- On the way from Geneva be prepared to pay at numerous tolls (about 30 euros total), here where cash is handy, but credit cards are accepted too.
- By the way, you might want to inform your bank or credit organization about your travelling plans so they do not cancel transactions due to security reasons.
- Do NOT leave anything in car visible! Car robbery is common in France. Unfortunately, last year we became victims of it. “We went to a lake (which is like 10-15min from the camp) with some friends around mid day. Unfortunately nobody told us that there was a serious problem with stealing, so we didn’t expect anyone to break into our car on a peaceful day at the lake. So when me and my dad came to the car the door was broken and a lot of our stuff were stolen (fortunately none of the climbing gear 😉 including our passports. Without passports we wouldn’t be able to get back to the United States, so we had to drive all the way to Bern, Switzerland to get new passports, not to mention numerous calls/faxes/emails to the embassy. Eventually we got everything fixed out but it took a lot of our climbing time. So yea hide your stuff.”
- Talking about troubles, nearest 2 places where problems with passports/papers for US citizens could be fixed are Paris in France or Bern in Switzerland.
- Camping is available at a camp called Camp Les Guerines, where all the climbers stay; they have showers, rest-rooms with sinks, and table tennis. It cost 5 euros a person per night. In case you are too soft 😉 to camp in tent, there is a hotel/hostel 1min away from the camp called La Grange de aux loops, which is 16 euros a night. And they also serve breakfast for an additional 5 euros.
- Internet is available at both places; but it does not work well at both places, just enough to check your emails and post a pic on Instagram.
- Summer is the time when everyone (at least most of foreigners) go to Céüse.
- Usually people start the one hour hike after 1:00pm/13:00 because the sun is out in the morning on the main wall (bring a lot of water as the hike gets very hot)
- Another option is to wake up very early and go to Cascades sector of the wall where sun comes after 10am. Note that bugs are giddy at the morning and spoil the fun (literally swarms of bugs); also you have to climb fast before sun comes.
- Ceuse guide book is available at the camp.
- Watch your stuff (attend phones/computers while charging them) as robberies are not that uncommon at the camp.
- Good sport store with climbing/camping gear is in nearby city Gap, it has pretty much everything in case you have forgotten something at home (or need cheap camping equipment).
- Food is available in Gap also, that is big enough town with many food stores.