My first 5.11

Once, climbing in Sonora, I bumped into an energetic person who in the by-the-way manner mentioned that he established 5.11 route in Pinnacles called POD. I new that route, at 8 y.o. it was my first 5.11. POD stands for … um, Post Orgasmic Depression. I remember my dad had hard time explaining me what it means. FA by Chris Bellizzi in 1981, I dare no imagine lycra climbing pans they had that year…

Some time passed before we met with Chris again, this time I was filmed for local CBS news for Chris’ project about installing climbing walls at schools. So, yeah, I am kind of celebrity now ;).

Then (after my first 5.11) I had pretty bad fall in Smith Rock and after that had fear for lead climbing for quite awhile. Only last summer in Ceuse situation improved a bit and I scored three 7b+ (5.12c). Everyone around tells me that more I climb less fear I am going to have. I hope so, otherwise it is not possible to work on hard routes, which I plan to do … and hopefully soon. Dreaming about a trip to Reg River Gorge this Spring, but ABS16 Nationals first.

France, Ceuse: San Jones Pecos 7b+ (5.12c)