This weekend I came to Castle Rock park to work on Nature Nazi Arete V7/V8. First, we warmed up on V0-V2s. But I needed something harder for warmup before jumping on V7. Nearby bouldering problem V4 FF Crack (aka Kermit The Frog) seemed to be the good choice.
The problem did not look that bad (my dad said it will kick my ass). My first impression was that two lips and the crack between present enough opportunities for:
- hand jams,
- grabbing something inside the crack,
- using lower lip sloppy edge,
- maybe grab undercling holds on upper lip.
The easy and quick send did not happen. This climb is very demanding and awkward, I had to constantly keep one of my legs either heel hooking or jamming. Hand jamming did not work for me, grabbing holds deeply inside the crack constrained my movement too much; after awhile I came up with beta that combined lots of foot work and using sloppy lower lip.
Interestingly enough, while working on it I forgot that today I came to work on other problem. When my dad reminded me that I answered: “I do not care, I am psyched to work on this one even if it is only V4, I do not care about the numbers, I love this problem … even despite the fact it kicks my ass”.
I struggled but I did it, and I enjoyed it enormously because it made me work, think, focus and most importantly forget about “goals” but instead provided pure climbing fun.