Training daily log

After ABS16 regionals I have decided to be more professional in my training. For the month from regionals to divisionals I kept a log with my daily routines. The format of the Daily Log is individual and has to depend on your goals.

My goals were:

  1. improve diet and loose weight;
  2. correct my life style, particularly the time when I wake up and go to bed;
  3. be able to do more hard climbs per session.

Correspondingly, in my log I had fields to record my weight, wake up and bed time. Also how many vegetables I eat and how many hard bouldering problems I have sent each day.

Here are the reasons why the log helped me:

  1. it served as a planner and helped with scheduling events; for every week and every day I would outline my plans that I could discuss with my coaches;
  2. seeing the numbers and facts in the log made it clear to me where I had lack of focus and discipline;
  3. improvements indicated by the data confirmed that I am on the right path, that in its turn made me to work even harder towards my goals.

Now let me present some data.

I took five days from the beginning of the log and its end, for each day I summed the number of hard routes ( V5 and harder for me) with corresponding weight depending on difficulty, the score improved from 54 to 69.

Also, every week I had a strength evaluation test. My strength numbers where improving every week, the most noticeable improvements were:

  1. Max # sit-ups went from 120 to 210.
  2. One Arm Lock of went from 13 sec to 23 sec on right arm and from 16 sec to 27 sec on left arm.
  3. Finger board Lock-Off went from 29 sec to 40 sec.

Conclusion:

  • Keeping a log helps.
  • You should organize data in your log to be suitable for a quantitative analysis, information like “I feel strong” wont help unless you are going to count days when you feel “strong” or “weak”, try to express everything in numbers.
  • Don’t be lazy filling out your log, a half complete log is worth almost nothing because it doesn’t allow you to render any conclusion.
  • Seeing numbers has its magic, you really want to do better than you did last time being it number of pull-ups or number of hard climbs.

Other than one accident I flashed all routes in qualifiers and finals and took 2nd place. Most important, I felt strong, prepared and confident. Thanks to the log.

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