After ABS16 regionals I have decided to be more professional in my training. For the month from regionals to divisionals I kept a log with my daily routines. The format of the Daily Log is individual and has to depend on your goals.
My goals were:
- improve diet and loose weight;
- correct my life style, particularly the time when I wake up and go to bed;
- be able to do more hard climbs per session.
Correspondingly, in my log I had fields to record my weight, wake up and bed time. Also how many vegetables I eat and how many hard bouldering problems I have sent each day.
Here are the reasons why the log helped me:
- it served as a planner and helped with scheduling events; for every week and every day I would outline my plans that I could discuss with my coaches;
- seeing the numbers and facts in the log made it clear to me where I had lack of focus and discipline;
- improvements indicated by the data confirmed that I am on the right path, that in its turn made me to work even harder towards my goals.
Now let me present some data.
I took five days from the beginning of the log and its end, for each day I summed the number of hard routes ( V5 and harder for me) with corresponding weight depending on difficulty, the score improved from 54 to 69.
Also, every week I had a strength evaluation test. My strength numbers where improving every week, the most noticeable improvements were:
- Max # sit-ups went from 120 to 210.
- One Arm Lock of went from 13 sec to 23 sec on right arm and from 16 sec to 27 sec on left arm.
- Finger board Lock-Off went from 29 sec to 40 sec.
- Keeping a log helps.
- You should organize data in your log to be suitable for a quantitative analysis, information like “I feel strong” wont help unless you are going to count days when you feel “strong” or “weak”, try to express everything in numbers.
- Don’t be lazy filling out your log, a half complete log is worth almost nothing because it doesn’t allow you to render any conclusion.
- Seeing numbers has its magic, you really want to do better than you did last time being it number of pull-ups or number of hard climbs.
Other than one accident I flashed all routes in qualifiers and finals and took 2nd place. Most important, I felt strong, prepared and confident. Thanks to the log.